Welcome to the website dedicated to theoretical and practical issues of mechanical ventilation of rooms using fans!

Before you proceed, however, check whether mechanical ventilation installed by yourself is permitted in your building.

Ask your building administrator or chimney sweep.

The aim of this website is to provide the most reliable and accessible information possible for people looking for solutions for room ventilation, using forced air movement through wall, ceiling, duct and other fans. Here you’ll find all the practical information and advice you need to know about selecting, operating, and installing wall and ceiling fans. The advice you’ll find here is intended to answer basic questions and problems, such as (click on a topic to go to details) :

1. When is ventilation ineffective?
2. Symptoms of insufficient ventilation of rooms.
3. How to choose a fan for a room?
4. How to calculate fan performance requirements?
5. What additional fan options should you choose for your room?
6. How to install a fan?
7. How to connect the fan to the power supply?
8. How to connect a fan when there is no power in the duct?
9. Why is it worth choosing a product from the Ventox store?

In short, if you’re reading this article, your ventilation is ineffective, or you’re aware that it might be, and you want to prevent it, or you’d like to comply with regulations.

Room ventilation is ineffective if it does not meet the requirements of the Latvian Standard LBN 231-15. This standard specifies the air volume requirements needed to ventilate individual rooms in residential, collective housing, and public buildings. Below, you will find selected, in our opinion, the most important information from this document, namely the minimum air volume flow requirements in rooms:

When paying attention to the above values, remember about the size (cubature) of the rooms, which is of great importance when selecting a fan. In short, if you live in an apartment or a single-family house and need a fan, then in my opinion: For 3 residents, a fan with an operating characteristic of 60-120 m3/h and a connector diameter of 100 mm is sufficient. For a larger number of residents 100-150m3/h, connector diameter 100-120mm.

• mold, commonly known as fungus,
• condensation of water vapor on windows, tiles and other surfaces in the room,
• increased air humidity,
• reverse airflow through ventilation grilles (manifested by, among others, the smell of mold, dust ingress, smells of food, exhaust fumes, smoke, cigarettes),
• swelling, cracking of room elements made of moisture-absorbing materials (wood, wood-based materials, plaster),
• cracks in plaster, gypsum coverings, paints,
• rust of metal elements.

• headaches, fatigue,
• irritation of the mucous membranes,
• respiratory diseases,
• allergies.

Choosing the right fan isn’t easy. Due to the sheer number of products available in the industry, it’s difficult to choose the right one that meets the minimum requirements mentioned above, while also providing functionality and a modern aesthetic that complements the room’s décor. When selecting a fan, keep in mind:

• minimum room ventilation requirements presented above,
• The mounting location is a wall or ceiling, as not all fans are suitable for ceiling mounting. Duct or flow fans can be mounted above a suspended ceiling or in a wall, as well as in other places that are not visible to the eye,
• the diameter of the ventilation hole in which our fan is to be placed: 100, 120 or 150 millimeters,
• 220V or 12V power supply supplied to the ventilation opening,
• the required connection cable – fans with a timer and a humidity sensor with a timer may require connection to a three-wire cable. You can use the so-called grounding – a grounding point that the fan does not use, unless it is a fan with a metal housing, e.g., an industrial fan or another type that requires grounding,
• functions that fans can have: standard without sensors, timer – time switch, light sensor, hygrostat – humidity sensor, LED backlight, non-return flap, air discharge at a temperature of +150C, air discharge with humidity up to 100%,
• aesthetics, which should reflect the room. The fan doesn’t have to be white; it can match the color of the walls, tiles, or fixtures.

• Permission from the building administration to install a fan.
• The capacity in m3/h you need.
• Mounting location: wall, ceiling, hidden.
• The diameter of the fan inlet hole 100, 120, 150 millimeters and its depth.
• 220V or 12V power supply.
• Power cable 2 wires or 3 wires.
• Additional fan functions, e.g. humidity sensor.
• Color, aesthetics (why did I put it at the end?) .

Fan efficiency depends on its type and power. To select the right one, consider the following factors:

• room size V= L * W * H (m3),
• required air exchange per hour (P),
• room furniture volume factor (K), K=0.7 – 0.95 depending on the size and number of furniture in the rooms.

Recommended air exchange rate per hour (P):

• 4-8 Bathrooms and showers,
• 10-12 Cafes, 
• 8-12 Canteens,
• 3-10 Cellars,
• 7-10 Conference rooms,
• 7-10 Halls, corridors,
• 6-10 Garages,
• 20+ Kitchen (gastronomy),
• 10-15 Laundries,
• 4-6 Offices,
• 8-12 Restaurants,
• 10-15 Shower cabins (sports halls),
• 10-15 Toilets (public),
• 6-10 Workshops.

Calculation of the required fan power – example: for a bathroom with dimensions of 2.3 m in length, 2.0 m in width and 2.4 m in height,

the volume V is V = L * W * H = 11.04 m3.

The fan capacity D is calculated using the formula: D=V * P * K=11.04 * 7 * 0.8 = 61.82 m3/h where:

• “V” – bathroom volume
• “P” – recommended air exchange rate per hour (Bathrooms and showers 4-8)
• “K” – furniture size factor in the room (K= from 0.7 to 0.95).

The basic possible fan options are:

• Check valve.
• Timer.
• Sleep Timer – Delayed Timer (NEW).
• Light sensor.
• Moisture sensor – Hygrostat.
• Temperature sensor – Thermostat.
• Motion sensor.

Goodies:

• LED backlight.
• Watch.
• Speed ​​control.

A check valve, a non-return valve, a diffuser – call it what you will, but what’s the point? The issue is relatively simple. We want to extract stale air from the room through a fan, and since that’s what we’ve decided, we also want to prevent stale air from returning from the ventilation duct to the room through the fan. This is where the option of a fan with a non-return valve comes in. The non-return valve is designed to prevent backdraft, or airflow from the ventilation duct into the room. Especially when the duct or ventilation shaft is used by several users, the inflow of unpleasant odors, such as cigarette smoke, or even noises from residents in other rooms can be unpleasant. The operation of a non-return valve is simple. The valve is closed whenever the fan is not operating. When the fan is operating, the valve automatically opens, driven by the airflow, to extract the air from the room. Most of our models are available with a non-return valve – see product descriptions .

Timer (click to go to our models page) . A very useful feature, especially in toilets and restrooms. It may require a three-wire connection. Remember that you can always use a ground wire, which is not required for connecting a low-power wall or ceiling fan, unless the fan’s instructions specify otherwise. What’s cool is that the fan starts when you turn on the light, for example, in the restroom, and runs for a certain period of time depending on the model (OK series fans – 5 minutes, MM series – 8 minutes, airRoxy 3-23 minutes), then turns off automatically. After turning on the light in the restroom or bathroom, the fan runs for the set time; when the timer expires, the fan automatically stops. However, one thing should be noted: if the room has a lot of daylight, users won’t turn on the light, and therefore the fan won’t run. If you’re considering a fan in a small restroom, consider using a fan with a timer that will continue running for a certain period of time after you leave the restroom. This way, the air in your restroom will always be fresh. It is also worth mentioning that fans with light, humidity and motion sensors are usually equipped with the Timer function.

Delayed timer, delayed clock  (click to go to our models page) . A useful new delay function for airRoxy fans. Requires a three-wire connection. Please note that you can always use a ground wire, which is not required for connecting low-power wall or ceiling fans, unless the fan’s manual states otherwise. The fan starts 3 minutes after the light is turned on if you’re still in the room. This means that if you leave the room before this time, for example, if you forget to apply perfume, wash your hands, teeth, or face, the fan won’t turn on. Only a longer stay in the room activates the mechanical fan, and its operation, depending on the potentiometer setting inside the housing, ranges from 3 to 23 minutes.

Below is a link to a video showing how the device works:

Light sensor  (click to go to our models page) . This option is often used in restaurants and public buildings. The fan is permanently connected to the power supply and does not require a light switch (or any switch). It operates when the light comes on in the room. It also stops when the light goes out. We don’t have to worry about whether someone is turning the fan on or not. This is a good option for owners of restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. However, it’s important to remember that the fan will always operate when the light is on. Otherwise, it will always operate when the light is off. If the room has a lot of daylight, this option should not be used. If you can’t control the fan via a light switch, only have a power cable in the duct, and there are no windows in the room, you should consider this option.

Humidity sensor, humidistat, and hygrometer  (click to go to our models page) . I’m a big proponent and practical user of this solution. The fan is permanently connected to a power source. Some models may also have a timer, which can, but doesn’t have to, be connected to a light switch. Therefore, the connection can be twofold: two-core or three-core cable with protected grounding – operation of the moisture sensor or three-core cable – operation of the humidity sensor and timer. a)  The fan starts when the set humidity level of approximately 70% is exceeded and stops when the following conditions are met: the humidity has dropped below 70% and a specified time of approximately 5 minutes has elapsed. b)  The fan starts when the set humidity level of approximately 70% is exceeded and stops when the following conditions are met: the humidity has dropped below 70% and a specified time of approximately 5 minutes has elapsed, and the fan runs for 5 minutes when the light switch is turned off. A fan is great for a bathroom with a shower, where there’s a lot of moisture during and after showering, which needs to be quickly removed. I described the symptoms and, to some extent, the consequences of an excessively humid bathroom in point two, ” Symptoms of Inadequate Room Ventilation .” The nice thing is that you don’t do anything – it takes on a life of its own. You step into the shower, and the fan turns on automatically if it detects that the humidity is too high. However, it’s important to note that the fan shouldn’t be too far from the source of moisture, I’d say about 1 meter. I personally have one mounted in the wall about 20 cm above the shower enclosure, and it works perfectly. The ceiling is also a good place if the fan is a wall-ceiling fan. So, if your bathroom is humid and you don’t want to bother turning the fan on and off, you have a solution. Remember, however, that for the fan to work, there must be steam, e.g., above the shower.

A temperature sensor and a thermostat . It’s not usually used in wall-ceiling fans; I haven’t heard of them, but they probably exist. However, they are used in duct fans installed in ceiling voids or near fireplaces, even hidden ones. Fireplace heating systems use duct fans to distribute warm air throughout the building. These fans can be controlled manually or via a temperature sensor permanently built into the fan housing. The thermostat turns the fan on and off automatically when it reaches the set temperature, eliminating the need for manual control. Hot air is automatically distributed throughout the building when the fireplace is used in winter. Therefore, if you’re planning to install a fireplace in your home, it’s worth considering whether it can additionally heat rooms on autumn and winter evenings.

Motion sensor  (click to go to our models’ pages) . Similar to the light sensor, however, daylight won’t interfere with the fan’s operation. The fan is permanently connected to the power supply and doesn’t require control from a light switch. Generally, if something moves, the fan starts and runs for a specified period. When considering this option, consider whether the motion sensor will cover the entire room, whether the fan is too close to an adjacent wall, or whether any objects, such as a shower, will obscure the sensor. If the room is rarely used, you like to use the bathroom in the dark, or you want the room to be aired out after the cat passes by, use this option. Seriously, if you have a room with a window and want the fan to run for a certain period after entering the room, choose this option.

First, it’s best to have it done by an experienced, licensed person. Second, if you’re determined to do it yourself, ensure your own safety, not only from the high voltage but also from the height at which you’re installing the fan. Third, it’s a good idea to enlist the help of a second person to hand you the tools and hold the ladder.

You need:

• a ladder, something you can stand on securely,
• small hammer drill,
• pencil,
• four pins fi 6, 35mm long, may be included with the fan,
• four 35mm long screws, may be included with the fan,
• electrical connector, may be included with the fan,
• tape,
• acrylic or silicone,
• a small screwdriver with a meter,
• A Phillips screwdriver (or any other brand),
• knife.

And here we go:

1. turn off the power – unscrew or turn off the fuse,
2. Remove the fan front by gently prying in the appropriate places,
3. check whether the fan and cables will fit through the ventilation opening,
4.  if the fan fits in the hole, hold the fan in the right position and mark the screw holes with a pencil,
5. remove the fan and drill holes in the wall or ceiling with a drill using the light impact option,
6. insert the pins into the holes,
7. go to point 6 of this guide, if you complete these steps, screw the fan in place with a Phillips screwdriver, fill the unevenness of the wall between the fan with acrylic or silicone, check the fan’s operation and gently replace its front.

“New” electrical installations are made using three-core wiring:

• Black or brown – phase.
• Blue – neutral, zero.
• Yellow-green – ground.

“Old” electrical installations can be made with two-core wiring:

• Black or brown – phase.
• Blue – neutral.

With the latter, you can’t properly connect a fan with a timer. You can connect a fan with a humidity sensor, but if the fan has a humidity sensor, light sensor, motion sensor, and a timer that requires connection to a light switch, it will work, but without the timer. Other models should work without a problem, even with a two-wire cable.

To properly connect a fan with a humidity, light, motion sensor, and timer, you can use an unused ground wire, as the fan is not required to have one, unless the manual specifies otherwise. NOTE: This solution is a loose proposal (we’re trying to help), but standards stipulate that each circuit should have a protective earth wire in new TN-S/TN-CS installations. Therefore, to use a timer, you should have four wires. The validity of this solution is up to your own judgment. Thank you for your information on this matter, and best regards: emigrant.

The manual includes wiring diagrams, but that’s where things get complicated. While an experienced person won’t have a problem, you’ll have a real problem because you’re doing it for the first time or you did it several years ago.

Standard fans, and others with a 230V power supply that only require a two-wire connection, don’t require any special attention here; it’s simple. Connect the fan wires to the live (brown) and neutral (blue), and the fan starts working immediately. This is an important question that customers often ask: which wire from a standard fan should be connected to which power supply? Since a fan is an electric motor, it doesn’t matter. Therefore, a standard fan can have wires of identical color.  Protect the grounding of the yellow-green wire with tape or connect it to the fan if possible.

Fans require a three-wire connection. I’ll briefly describe this using our MMP series fans. The manufacturer uses three wire colors:

• L – Red,
• N – Black – neutral,
• S/L – Yellow – Activates the Timer option. 

Using a meter, confirm where the current is—the phase . Sometimes it happens that the ground wire is blue, or even yellow and green?!?!. After checking the phase and before connecting the wires, remember to turn off the power, disconnect the plugs, and remove the fuse.

POWER SUPPLY:

• L – brown or black
• N – blue
• P E – yellow-green, use from fan to light switch (do not connect to existing wiring)

FAN:

• L – red directly with brown or black above
• N – black directly with blue above
• S/L – yellow directly with yellow-green above

SWITCH:

• L – directly from POWER – brown or black (a capital letter L should be written or embossed on the switch)
• the other side of the S/L switch – directly from the FAN – yellow-green (only the fragment from the fan to the switch)

LIGHT SOURCE (bulb):

• L  – to the above other side of the SWITCH together with S/L – yellow-green
• N – directly from POWER – black
• P E  – yellow-green for general grounding installation.

Using a meter, confirm where the current is—the phase. Sometimes it’s in the blue or even the yellow-green ground wire. 

Disconnect the power supply – unscrew or turn off the fuse responsible for this installation.

And now, the most important thing: where the devil is. While we shouldn’t have any problems with the L and N (Red and Black) wires, the real problem lies with the S/L – Timer wire.

In the switch box, locate the ground wire coming from the ventilation duct and disconnect it from the rest of the grounding system. Connect this wire to the light switch as a live wire. Connect the other end of the wire to the fan (yellow). At this point you have all the wires connected on the fan side.

Light switch. The yellow wire is already connected to the light switch. Now connect one of the wires powering the light to the same side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the installation’s power supply (phase) using either the brown or black wire. At this point, you have all the wires connected on the switch side.

We have the last wire left from the Light – Bulb which needs to be connected to the power supply to the Blue-Zero wire. In the switch socket, it is worth sticking tape to mark the ground wire used between the switch and the fan as S/L on its extreme ends so that the person who will do something in the future knows that it is not grounding.

If you want a fan with a humidity sensor and timer to operate only when humidity increases and turn off when humidity drops to a preset value (without a timer function – two-wire connection), simply connect it permanently to the L and N wires. Secure the PE wire.  

Using connectors, connect all fan wires to the power supply as described above.

Make sure that the cables will not interfere with the operation of the fan, especially if it is a model with a non-return valve.

Turn on the power – screw in or turn on the fuse responsible for this installation.

Some models with a timer function can start operating immediately after power is turned on and turn off automatically after a specified period of time, depending on the position of the light switch.  Test the fan’s operation using the light switch. 

There’s really only one solution to this frequently asked question: run power to the point where the fan will be located. How do you do this? Fans are installed in exhaust ducts, or ventilation shafts. Such a duct usually runs from the basement to the chimney, extending the entire height of the building. Therefore, you can use a duct and run a cable through it, for example, from the basement or another room to the bathroom or other point where you plan to install the fan. First, use a meter to check the point where you want to power your fan to see if it has power. Then, select the cable and fan. The cable should be weather-resistant, as water can condense in the duct. Since the fan will be permanently connected to a power source, it should be equipped with one of the following control functions (see point 4) :

• fan with humidity sensor,
• fan with light sensor,
• fan with motion sensor,
• fan activated by a string.

It’s worth measuring the length of the cable you need. You can simply insert a weighted string into the bathroom hole and pull the end through the hole at the bottom of the duct, leading it to the power supply point. After marking the length and removing the string, simply measure the length, and you’ll know the length of cable you need. Then, insert the cable through the hole in your bathroom. You can also weight the cable to make it sink more easily. Internal ventilation ducts are often very rough and uneven, for example, made of brick, which can be quite laborious – you need to be patient.

Once we’ve successfully threaded the cable through, we need to secure its upper end so it doesn’t fall into the duct. It’s best to use a drill and screw a clamp into the duct. This will tighten and hold the cable without damaging its insulation. Next, we connect the cable and fan to the power supply (see step 6)  and install the fan (see step 5) . We’re happy with our installation and proud of our solution.

You can also use a battery-powered fan solution, but I don’t recommend this solution because no one will climb up and disassemble the fan to replace dead batteries. 

The products in our store are popular due to their quality, aesthetics, and functionality. Our products are manufactured in the European Union according to the stringent ISO 9001-2008 quality standards. As a result, the manufacturer guarantees their reliability for 2 to 5 years.

Reasons to choose our fan:

• Engine protected against dust and moisture,
• Maximum insulation characteristics,
• Engine longevity.

How is this achieved? The winding of each electric motor is coated with a highly insulating resin and then cured by “baking” the coil in a special oven. During the entire impregnation and curing process, current flows through the coil to continuously monitor the quality of the winding and insulation.

The coils are impregnated for the following purposes:

1. obtaining high mechanical strength,
2. avoiding wires rubbing against each other and abrasion of the insulating coating,
3. displacing the air and replacing the space with resin, which improves heat dissipation outside the coil,
4. providing protection against moisture, dust and dust particles,
5. improving electrical insulation, temperature resistance and general parameters of the electric motor.

The electric motor is then permanently connected to the impeller, ensuring additional durability and balanced, smooth fan operation. Each electric motor is completed with two high-quality ball bearings, encapsulated on each side, to maximize the fan’s durability and reliability.

The Ventox store is the exclusive distributor of MMotors products in Poland. Ventox was created for customers seeking interesting solutions in terms of functionality, quality, and especially aesthetics for products used at home and in the office. We strive to care for our customers by providing them with the widest possible stream of information about our products.

We are a legally operating company, and we issue a receipt or VAT invoice for each product, based on the customer’s request. Each product comes with a Polish manual and warranty card, making it easy to use. We ensure fast and affordable shipping to our customers. We maintain an informational website so you have all the necessary information about our products.

I hope I helped and that everything works as it should. If it doesn’t, please contact us at :

+371 29362102

info@ventoxbaltic.eu

or send us a message :